{"title":"Vintage Perfume Study","description":"\u003cp\u003eMATERIALS FOCUSED STUDY OF ICONIC VINTAGE FRAGRANCES\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSome of our most iconic fragrances were created in the 20th century. When I smell vintage Old Spice, I'm transported to the smell of my beloved Grandfather, a WWII Veteran. Old Spice shaving kits were given to new recruits during WWII and Vietnam, so the spicy fougère has become a cultural and personal touchstone for many of us.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMany people have similar stories for the perfumes being studied. Their familiar scent provides a powerful visceral connection to a loved one who is no longer physically present.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA hundred years ago, the largest perfume houses produced thousands of bottles annually. Today, the big commercial houses produce millions of bottles annually, fundamentally changing what is considered practical and resulting in less creative freedom.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRegulatory changes, animal welfare, environmental and conservation concerns have also impacted the art of perfumery.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs part of an effort to preserve the history of 20th Century fragrance in Europe and the US, while attempting to recognize the cultures impacted by these harmful practices that continue to today, I've created lessons based on these memorable perfumes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eStudy Structure\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVintage Perfume Reconstruction:\u003c\/strong\u003e Using formulas provided by Fraterworks, I recreate the perfume being studied. Fraterworks has conducted GCMS studies, and speculated each formula based on the results. This is an approximation using historically accurate materials. Please do not apply to skin; these are for study purposes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e Each class will focus on different materials such as: Aldehydes, Oakmoss, Costus Root, Animalics, etc.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVintage Eau de Cologne\/Perfume Sample:\u003c\/strong\u003e In order to keep the studies accessible, I provide pre-IFRA samples of an Eau de Cologne or Parfum depending on market availability.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSalon Style Discussion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Live (in-person or virtual) studies are designed to provide an opportunity for discussion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"repro-emir-vintage-perfume-study","title":"Repro Emir ~ Vintage Perfume Study","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003eFor Study Not Skin\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProlific French perfumer Jean Carles created Emir for the House of Dana in the 1930s. Eclipsed by the more popular Tabu and Canoe, Emir is now most well-known as the perfume found on Frida Kahlo's nightstand. Frequently described as what we would know call an Amber perfume, Emir is grounded by generous amounts of Vetiver, the familiar \"vintage\" notes of real oakmoss, and tons (perhaps a few too many) other ingredients. The transformative use of aldehydes to provide lift and effervescence is characteristic of their influence on \"modern perfumery\" that occurred early in the 20th Century. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe reproduction of Emir included in this set is based on a formula provided by Fraterworks. Informed by Jean Carles' journals, this reproduction includes IFRA restricted materials (For Study, Not Skin) and provides a rare window into the past. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVintage perfumes suffer from evaporation, degradation, and oxidation, and aren't representative of the true character of the original perfume. Aldehydes and citrus notes that provide sparkle and lift are often the first to degrade. In order to identify some of the notes that are typically absent, the three aldehydes C-10, C-12 Lauric, and C-14 (Gamma Undecalactone, not a true lactone).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIncluded:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e4ml of Reproduction Emir\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e3 - 1ml vials of Aldehydes\/Lactone\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePipettes\/Scent Strips\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Full Petal Alchemy","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52648731476149,"sku":"EMIR-4","price":35.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0535\/8351\/1733\/files\/Reproduction_Emir.jpg?v=1780798502"},{"product_id":"repro-vintage-perfume-study","title":"Repro Tabu ~ Vintage Perfume Study","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003eFor Study Not Skin*\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLaunched in 1932, Javier Serra provided Jean Carles with the brief, \"create a perfume that a prostitute would wear.\" Serra had recently founded Dana Parfums and while walking down a street in Nice, France, saw Sigmund Freud's book, \"Totem \u0026amp; Taboo,\" in a bookshop window. Inspired by Freud's book, \"the forbidden perfume,\" was conceived.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"a_GcMg font-feature-liga-off font-feature-clig-off font-feature-calt-off text-decoration-none text-strikethrough-none\"\u003eTabu seemed designed to connect with the hedonistic joy of 1930's Europe. Sex and death have always been siblings and those who survived WWI, were bonded through their shared trauma. The heady animalic, perfume with amber, rich florals, spices, and neroli wasn't clean, but it felt alive.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"cvGsUA block-font-kerning-none block-font-feature-liga-off block-font-feature-clig-off block-font-feature-calt-off direction-ltr align-center para-style-body\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"a_GcMg font-feature-liga-off font-feature-clig-off font-feature-calt-off text-decoration-none text-strikethrough-none\"\u003eTop notes: Bergamot, orange, neroli, coriander, spice notes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"cvGsUA block-font-kerning-none block-font-feature-liga-off block-font-feature-clig-off block-font-feature-calt-off direction-ltr align-center para-style-body\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"a_GcMg font-feature-liga-off font-feature-clig-off font-feature-calt-off text-decoration-none text-strikethrough-none\"\u003eHeart notes: Clove bud, ylang-ylang, rose jasmine\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"cvGsUA block-font-kerning-none block-font-feature-liga-off block-font-feature-clig-off block-font-feature-calt-off direction-ltr align-center para-style-body\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"a_GcMg font-feature-liga-off font-feature-clig-off font-feature-calt-off text-decoration-none text-strikethrough-none\"\u003eBase notes: Patchouli, costus root, oakmoss, civet, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin, amber, and musk\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough a version of Tabu still exists, the materials in this kit will include a formula designed to have more in common with the eponymous 1932 version. The reproduction is based on a formula provided by Fraterworks. Using a GCMS analysis and extensive knowledge of perfume history, Fraterworks has recreated a formula in an attempt to reach back in time to experience how the original perfume would have smelled when it was first released. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Study Kit Includes:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReproduction of the 1932 TABU (4ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTABU Eau de Cologne c.1960-70 (1ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCostus Root Oil 10% (0.5g)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCostus Oliffac 10% (0.5g)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCostus Root (0.5g)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOakmoss Absolute 10% (0.5g)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOakmoss Absolute 10% - IFRA 41 (0.5g)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOakmoss\/Treemoss (0.5g)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'San Francisco', 'Segoe UI', Roboto, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eIn addition to evaluating the TABU recreation, two IFRA restricted materials, Costus and Oakmoss, will be highlighted and compared to their replacements.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eWhile no account can be complete, we consider the historical use of these materials alongside the cultural provenance of Costus and Oakmoss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlease note: Costus Root and Oakmoss are both restricted by IFRA for their potential to cause skin sensitization.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Full Petal Alchemy","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52831322505397,"sku":null,"price":55.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0535\/8351\/1733\/files\/IMG_3388.jpg?v=1784679175"},{"product_id":"repro-tabu-vintage-perfume-study-copy","title":"Repro Canoe ~ Vintage Perfume Study","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFor Study ~ Not Skin\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLaunched in 1936, Canoe was another Jean Carles collaboration with The House of Dana. It is described as the \"essence of the adventurous lifestyle\" according to Dana Classic Fragrances.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eOriginally released as a fragrance for women, Canoe, a fougère (a fantasy fern accord that includes lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss), became popular with troops returning from WWII.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCanoe became a classic barbershop cologne for decades. After Canoe's marketing was surrendered to the male demographic, Jean Carles created Ambush in 1955 with women in mind. It had a very similar scent profile, but didn't share Canoe's success.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTop notes: Lavender, Clary Sage, Lemon, Bergamot\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeart notes: Carnation, Geranium, Rosewood Oil\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBase notes: Oakmoss, Coumarin, Patchouli, Nitro Musks, Vetiver\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough a version of Canoe still exists, this kit includes a formula designed to have more in common with the version released in 1936. It is intended to be loyal to the historic perfume, so it is \u003cstrong\u003eNOT IFRA COMPLIANT.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe reproduction is based on a formula provided by Fraterworks. Using a GCMS analysis and extensive knowledge of perfume history, Fraterworks has recreated a version of the formula that attempts to reach back in time to experience how the original perfume would have smelled when it was first released. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI evaluate Fraterwork's results, then further refine the vintage reproduction. It is not identical, but is intended to provide a similar profile while using materials that haven't changed over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe study kit includes:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReproduction of 1936 Canoe (4ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCanoe Eau de Cologne c.1959-1970 (1ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe following ingredients diluted to 10%:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRosewood Oil (1ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMusk Ambrette (1ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAmbrettolide (1ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEthylene Brassylate (1ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGalaxolide (1ml)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn addition to evaluating vintage Canoe and the reproduction, the kit includes a Nitro Musk (Musk Ambrette) and three Modern Musks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe kit provides an opportunity to consider gender in fragrance, modern efforts to create a sustainable method of harvesting rosewood oil, t\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003ehe history behind the nitro musk ban, and modern musks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlease note: Nitro musks are banned by many countries for use in perfumery, so please use caution. Vintage Canoe also contained oakmoss, a known skin sensitizer that is heavily restricted by IFRA. There may be other materials that are present in non-IFRA approved amounts. \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGloves are provided, please use them.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Full Petal Alchemy","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":53394637848757,"sku":null,"price":55.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0535\/8351\/1733\/files\/Vintage_Canoe.jpg?v=1790630902"}],"url":"https:\/\/fullpetalalchemy.com\/collections\/vintage-perfume-study.oembed","provider":"Full Petal Alchemy","version":"1.0","type":"link"}