Vintage Perfume Study - June 7th at 7pm (CT)
Dana Emir - Jean Carles
To ensure an intimate discussion, the study will be capped to 6 to 8 participants.
I'll ask for consensus from participants to decide if we should Zoom or use a TikTok panel format.
I recently returned from Italy. Much of the itinerary included visits to vineyards. Although I don't drink, I found the experience of evaluating the aroma quite enjoyable. I was challenged to identify notes; pink pepper, green apple, oak, quite a fun game!
Recently I recreated the 1930s perfume, Dana Emir, by the illustrious Jean Carles. The idea of experiencing the perfume in what would've been close to its original form felt a bit like traveling through time via scent. The association with Frida Kahlo amplified my interest.
I also obtained a vintage sample from the 1950s as a comparison. I had many thoughts about the description of the perfume, the degradation of some of the ingredients, and the vintage brilliance of the composition.
The entire experience inspired me to create an intimate discussion of the perfume and comparison between the vintage and modern reproduction.
The reproduction is based on a formulation provided by Fraterworks. Jamie Frater has this to say about Jean Carles: "It is no secret that I revere Jean Carles beyond all perfumers; Fraterworks is testament to that. From free formulas to his original bases we've got it all. I was recently gifted a notebook of Jean Carles' original handwritten formulas, a true museum-worthy treasure, and in celebration, this week we are focussing on his work and publishing his formula for Emir, the masterpiece oriental for Dana in the 1930s."
Participants will receive:
-
4ml bottle of Repro Emir (modern reproduction of Dana Emir)
- This will not be IFRA compliant and is intended for study purposes only.
- Although Fraterworks uses IFRA compliant oakmoss in this formulation, I will be using unadulterated Yugoslavian Oakmoss.
- 0.25ml sample of Dana Emir obtained from a vintage coffret of Jean Carles fragrances. These are difficult to accurately date, but it appears to have been produced in the 1950s so should be similar to the 1930s version.
- Dana Emir formula courtesy of Fraterworks (PDF)
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A Method of Creation and Perfumery By Jean Carles (PDF)
- Written in 1961, this is publicly available information.
The most exciting feature (in my opinion) will be the "book club style" discussion comparing the reproduction and the original.
Please note: orders will ship May 25th.
