For Study Not Skin*
Launched in 1932, Javier Serra provided Jean Carles with the brief, "create a perfume that a prostitute would wear." Serra had recently founded Dana Parfums and while walking down a street in Nice, France, saw Sigmund Freud's book, "Totem & Taboo," in a bookshop window. Inspired by Freud's book, "the forbidden perfume," was conceived.
Tabu seemed designed to connect with the hedonistic joy of 1930's Europe. Sex and death have always been siblings and those who survived WWI, were bonded through their shared trauma. The heady animalic, perfume with amber, rich florals, spices, and neroli wasn't clean, but it felt alive.
Top notes: Bergamot, orange, neroli, coriander, spice notes
Heart notes: Clove bud, ylang-ylang, rose jasmine
Base notes: Patchouli, costus root, oakmoss, civet, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin, amber, and musk
Although a version of Tabu still exists, the materials in this kit will include a formula designed to have more in common with the eponymous 1932 version. The reproduction is based on a formula provided by Fraterworks. Using a GCMS analysis and extensive knowledge of perfume history, Fraterworks has recreated a formula in an attempt to reach back in time to experience how the original perfume would have smelled when it was first released.
The Study Kit Includes:
- Reproduction of the 1932 TABU (4ml)
- TABU Eau de Cologne c.1960-70 (1ml)
- Costus Root Oil 10% (0.5g)
- Costus Oliffac 10% (0.5g)
- Costus Root (0.5g)
- Oakmoss Absolute 10% (0.5g)
- Oakmoss Absolute 10% - IFRA 41 (0.5g)
- Oakmoss/Treemoss (0.5g)
In addition to evaluating the TABU recreation, two IFRA restricted materials, Costus and Oakmoss, will be highlighted and compared to their replacements.
While no account can be complete, we consider the historical use of these materials alongside the cultural provenance of Costus and Oakmoss.
Please note: Costus Root and Oakmoss are both restricted by IFRA for their potential to cause skin sensitization.
