For Study ~ Not Skin

Launched in 1936, Canoe was another Jean Carles collaboration with The House of Dana. It is described as the "essence of the adventurous lifestyle" according to Dana Classic Fragrances.

Originally released as a fragrance for women, Canoe, a fougère (a fantasy fern accord that includes lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss), became popular with troops returning from WWII.

Canoe became a classic barbershop cologne for decades. After Canoe's marketing was surrendered to the male demographic, Jean Carles created Ambush in 1955 with women in mind. It had a very similar scent profile, but didn't share Canoe's success.

Top notes: Lavender, Clary Sage, Lemon, Bergamot

Heart notes: Carnation, Geranium, Rosewood Oil

Base notes: Oakmoss, Coumarin, Patchouli, Nitro Musks, Vetiver

Although a version of Canoe still exists, this kit includes a formula designed to have more in common with the version released in 1936. It is intended to be loyal to the historic perfume, so it is NOT IFRA COMPLIANT.

The reproduction is based on a formula provided by Fraterworks. Using a GCMS analysis and extensive knowledge of perfume history, Fraterworks has recreated a version of the formula that attempts to reach back in time to experience how the original perfume would have smelled when it was first released. 

I evaluate Fraterwork's results, then further refine the vintage reproduction. It is not identical, but is intended to provide a similar profile while using materials that haven't changed over time.

The study kit includes:

• Reproduction of 1936 Canoe (4ml)
• Canoe Eau de Cologne c.1959-1970 (1ml)

The following ingredients diluted to 10%:

• Rosewood Oil (1ml)
• Musk Ambrette (1ml)
• Ambrettolide (1ml)
• Ethylene Brassylate (1ml)
• Galaxolide (1ml)

In addition to evaluating vintage Canoe and the reproduction, the kit includes a Nitro Musk (Musk Ambrette) and three Modern Musks.

The kit provides an opportunity to consider gender in fragrance, modern efforts to create a sustainable method of harvesting rosewood oil, the history behind the nitro musk ban, and modern musks.

Please note: Nitro musks are banned by many countries for use in perfumery, so please use caution. Vintage Canoe also contained oakmoss, a known skin sensitizer that is heavily restricted by IFRA. There may be other materials that are present in non-IFRA approved amounts. 

Gloves are provided, please use them.